it cools, then release the pressure and check to see if the warp has been eliminated. It may take several attempts, but a straight wing is worth the effort. A wing that has been covered with a doped-on cloth covering material can sometimes be straightened by holding the wing, twisted opposite the warp as described above, over a kettle of boiling water for several minutes. The steam should loosen the covering enough to let you twist out the warp — just take care not to burn yourself!

WINGTIP WASHOUT: Be careful! Some models, particularly those with a tapered wing planform (wing narrower at the tip than at the center), are sometimes designed with built-in "wingtip washout", which may appear to be a warp in the wing when viewed from behind. Washout simply means that the wing is purposely twisted so that the airfoil at the wingtip is pointed slightly nose down (about 1°-2°) compared to the airfoil at the wing root. This special twist prevents the wingtips from stalling prematurely, before the larger center portion of the wing does, when the airplane is slowed down for landing. Without washout, some highly tapered wings have a tendency to "tip stall" without warning and go immediately into a fatal left or right snap roll. Washout lets the wing stall in the center first, producing a gentle, straight ahead stall. Straight, un-tapered wings (wingtip the same size as the center) normally do not have washout. If your model has been designed to incorporate washout (the designer will normally indicate it on the plans or instructions), then you must expect the wing to appear slightly twisted. The main thing to check on a wing like this is that both wings have the same amount of washout.

( ) CHECK THE GROUND ATTITUDE OF TRIKE-GEARED MODELS Models that have a nosewheel should be set-up so that the airplane sits level on the ground when viewed from the side. An airplane that sits nose down will want to "stick" to the runway during takeoff because the wing is actually at a negative angle of attack. As the speed increases, the wing pushes the airplane down harder, holding it on the ground. The pilot must then feed in a lot of up elevator to force the model to rotate to a positive angle of attack, which then causes it to pop quickly off the ground and jump into the air at too steep an angle. On the other hand, if the model sits nose high on the ground, takeoffs will be smoother but landings will probably be very bouncy if the nose wheel touches the ground first. The best alternative is to have the airplane sit perfectly level on the ground! Adjust the ground attitude by loosening the steering arm set screw and moving the nose wheel strut up or down as necessary.

MODEL IN A NOSE-DOWN GROUND ATTITUDE

MODEL IN A NOSE-UP GROUND ATTITUDE

MODEL IN A LEVEL GROUND ATTITUDE

( ) CHECK WHEEL ALIGNMENT
Make a visual check that the main wheels are aligned straight ahead. This is particularly important for taildrag-ger models (models with a tailwheel instead of a nose wheel). Although the controversy of toe-in versus toe-out for taildraggers will probably continue to rage on, we have found that aligning the wheels straight along the path of the model (wheels parallel to each other) generally works just fine.

( ) DOUBLE CHECK THAT ALL BOLTS, SCREWS,
AND NUTS ARE TIGHT
Losing a model to mechanical failure because something wasn't securely tightened is always a shame, particularly if it could have been prevented. It can't hurt to give your model, engine, and radio a final "once over" to see that everything is tight and secure. The following is a list of common areas that should be double checked — you may think of several other items that are just as important.

( ) BE SURE BATTERIES ARE FULLY CHARGED

The batteries in the model and the transmitter should be fully charged whenever you go to the field to fly. Newcomers to R/C often fail to understand the importance of keeping your radio system fully charged. They think in terms of rechargeable tools or kids' toys they have owned that are typically charged up, run down until dead, and then recharged. You can't do that with an R/C airplane! If the radio batteries go dead when the model is in flight, the airplane will crash! Always charge your radio the night before you plan to fly, even if the batteries were charged a week or only a few days prior to flying. That's not enough! Recharge them again, just to make sure. Follow the recommended charging procedures of the radio manufacturer.

AT THE FLYING FIELD

( ) FIND A SUITABLE PLACE TO FLY
Don't try to fly your new R/C model in your backyard, at the local school yard, or in any other heavily populated area! If you have never seen an R/C airplane fly before, you probably don't realize how much room you really need. It's more than most people think. If you are new to the hobby, you should try to find out if there are any other R/C fliers in your area and where they fly. R/C model clubs can be of great help to the newcomer and usually have a suitable flying field. Go to the flying field and talk with the R/C fliers. Don't be shy! You will undoubtedly find them to be very friendly and interested in helping you.

If you happen to live way out "in the boonies", you'll probably have to find a suitable field on your own. Be sure to pick a site with plenty of unobstructed, open space, far from people, power lines, and homes. Trees seem to have a magnetic attraction for models, so avoid flying near them, if you can! A paved surface, bare ground, or clipped grass similar to the average lawn will serve well as a runway for takeoffs and landings. The runway should be at least 300 feet long and should be clear of rocks and mounds.

Airplanes like this J-3 Piper Cub model with the two main wheels in front and a tailwheel in the back are called "taildraggers". Occasionally you may hear taildraggers referred to as having "conventional landing gear" because back when that phrase was coined, taildraggers ruled the full-scale aviation world.

( ) RADIO RANGE CHECK
Procedures for performing a radio range check are usually provided in the instructions supplied with the radio. If not, here is a simple procedure to use. With the transmitter antenna totally collapsed, start walking away from the model while constantly working one of the controls, like the rudder, as you go. Keep walking and moving the sticks until control is lost. You should be at least 30 or 40 feet away from the model (sometimes it's much more) when you lose control. The actual distance you'll get depends on many things, like how far the antenna collapses into your transmitter, etc. The main thing is to note this distance and use it as a reference point for future range checks of that radio system. It's a good idea to repeat this test each time you go out to fly. A drop in range is a good warning that something serious is wrong. Don't fly with significantly reduced range — send the radio in to an authorized service center for repair.

( ) CHECK CONTROLS WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING
A radio that performs flawlessly on the bench may not do so when subjected to the vibrations of a running engine. Have someone else hold tightly onto your model while you perform a simple test. Start the engine and let it run at full high throttle while you stand back and work the controls. Observe the control surfaces carefully. If there is any indication that control is being disrupted by vibration, or if control movements seem to occur without being transmitted, DO NOT FLY! Those are warnings of serious radio or wiring problems that must be corrected before flying. Be certain there is plenty of padding around the receiver.

( ) DOUBLE CHECK THAT THE CONTROLS ARE OPERATING IN THE CORRECT DIRECTION
It sounds elementary, but you'd be surprised at how many R/C models have been lost over the years because one of the controls was operating in the wrong direction. Maybe one of the servo reversing switches was inadvertantly bumped, or maybe the pushrod has been removed and then reinstalled on the wrong side of the servo. Don't let it happen to you! Get in the habit of moving the control sticks before each and every takeoff to verify that everything is operating properly — up stick gives up elevator, right stick gives right rudder, etc. It also gives you a chance to confirm that the controls are not binding or sticking from some unnoticed new problem.

( ) TRANSMITTER ANTENNA FULLY EXTENDED BEFORE FLIGHT
Here's another simple mistake that can cause a heartbreaking crash. Get in the habit of fully extending your transmitter antenna BEFORE you turn on your radio and start the engine. Develop a safe pre-flight routine in the pit area so you can avoid silly, and dangerous, mistakes in the future.

( ) CHECK THAT THE WING IS MOUNTED SECURELY
If your model has bolt-on wing mounting, double check to make sure that the bolts are snug and that none of the servo wires are pinched between the wing and fuselage joint. If your wing is held on by rubber bands, be sure to use enough rubber bands to keep the wing from shifting around on the fuselage during flight (about eight or ten #64-size rubber bands for a .40-sized model). Always put the last two rubber bands on so they criss-cross diagonally to help keep the other rubber bands in place. After flying, wash engine oil off of the rubber bands, dust them with talcum powder, and store them out of the sunlight for maximum life.