CHAPTER 6 STARTING AND RUNNING THE ENGINE

FIELD EQUIPMENT

FUEL PUMPS: A syringe-type fueler or a rubber fuel bulb are the simplest and least expensive devices for fueling your model. Their biggest drawback is their limited capacity, which requires several draws of fuel to fill an average size R/C fuel tank.
The next step up is to get a pressure-type fuel pump or a hand-operated mechanical pump. The pressure fuel pump uses a squeeze bulb to pressurize the fuel jug, forcing fuel through the fill tube and into the tank. Pressure pumps are somewhat slow and cannot be used to draw leftover fuel out of the airplane after flying. Mechanical pumps usually have a hand crank, powered by "elbow grease", to quickly pump fuel out of the jug and into the tank. In addition, they can be cranked backwards to defuel the plane.
The most deluxe, and most expensive way to refuel and defuel a model airplane is with an electric fuel pump. These pumps are fast and efficient, but must be powered by an external 6 or 12 volt battery.

GLOW PLUG STARTING BATTERIES: Glow plugs require hookup to a 1-1/2 volt battery to make them "light up" for starting. Don't try to use anything but a 1-1/2 volt battery! Too much voltage can burn out the plug element, while too little may not make it glow at all.

There are special 1-1/2 volt dry-cell "hobby" batteries available that are relatively inexpensive and will last close to a full season of flying. A more deluxe step is to get a rechargeable 1-1/2 volt nicad starting battery. These come in a variety of sizes and styles, from small pocket-size to larger versions with a built-in meter and adjustable current output. Regardless of the type of starting battery you get, you will need a glow plug connecter and about 3 feet of hookup wire to connect the battery to the plug.

STARTERS AND CHICKEN STICKS: The final piece of equipment you need is something to flip the prop. The handiest device is the index and middle fingers of your hand, but we've already talked about fingers and props! Actually hand starting is fairly common and with the proper respect for the engine and propeller, it can be safe as well, especially with smaller engines. Always use a glove or finger protector when hand starting a large model engine. Better yet, many modelers prefer to flip the prop using a "chicken stick", which basically consists of a large diameter wood dowel inside of a rubber sleeve. Don't let the name mislead you, a chicken stick is a wise choice, much better than cutting off your fingers!

The most popular means of starting model engines is with an electric starter powered by a 12 volt battery. Electric starters are big electric motors that use a special rubber adapter to engage the spinner or prop nut. They spin the engine rapidly, and usually make starting a breeze. An electric starter is probably the first thing you should get after a fuel pump and starting battery.

SIMPLE HAND TOOLS: An assortment of straight-blade and phillips-head screwdrivers in several sizes, regular and needle-nose pliers, alien wrenches, glow plug/prop wrench, side-cutters, an awl, an X-Acto knife, spare fuel tubing, extra props, nuts, bolts, and screws are also very handy to have along in your flight box. Don't forget some rags to wipe the exhaust residue off your model when you're through.

The engine test stand shown here is typical of the commercial units available. It can be adjusted quickly to fit many sizes of engines.' This test stand is bolted securely to an old table.

STARTING THE ENGINE FOR THE FIRST TIME

ENGINE TEST STAND: A new engine can be run either installed in the airplane or mounted to an engine test stand. You can buy a commercially available test stand, or if you are using a firewall-type engine mount, you can bolt it to a 2 x 4 or larger block of wood. Clamp the block tightly to a table, hook up a fuel tank and lines, and you're ready to run. A piece of wire hooked to the throttle arm will let you control the carburetor setting. Never clamp an engine in a vise for running! It won't hold and can seriously damage the engine and you!

THE FIRST START: Set the needle valve according to the engine manufacturer's recommendation. If they don't say, close it completely, then turn it back out about 3 - 4 turns. Fill the tank, make sure the carburetor is wide open, and then choke the engine by turning the prop over a couple of times while holding your finger over the carburetor opening. This should draw fuel from the tank, through the fuel line, and into the carb. Watch for the fuel in the fuel line to make sure it is getting all

A variety of popular fuel pumps is shown above. (1) Plunger-type syringe fueler. (2) Squeezable rubber fuel bulb. (3) Electric fuel pump (note battery clips). (4) Hand-crank mechanical fuel pump.		Above are some typical starting batteries and glow plug connectors. (1) Non-rechargeable dry cell with locking-type connector. (2) Re-chargeable nicad battery with built-in connector. (3) Another nicad, but with variable current output and built-in ammeter.