This photo shows the correct throttle barrel position for low throttle (idle). Notice that only a small opening remains in the carburetor for air passage.	Same photo, right? Wrong! The kinked pushrod indicates that the throttle servo is straining (listen for a "buzz"). Adjust the clevis to relieve the strain.	Setting up the throttle can be tricky. The throttle barrel in this carburetor is wide open, indicating the engine is at high throttle.

Now for the tricky part — adjusting the carburetor movement! The throttle barrel in the engine's carburetor must be wide open when the throttle stick and the throttle trim lever are all the way forward on the transmitter. Conversely, with the throttle stick and trim lever all the way back, the barrel should be closed (the idle stop screw on the engine may need to be backed out to allow the barrel to close far enough). Lastly, when the throttle stick is all the way back and the trim lever is all the way forward, you should see a small slit of an opening in the throttle barrel. It is very rare for the throttle to work correctly the first time it is hooked up! By changing holes on the servo arm or throttle arm, and adjusting the R/C link in or out, you should be able to achieve the proper movement. Be certain that the throttle servo isn't stalled (listen for a buzz and watch for flexing of the cable) at the extreme movements of the transmitter stick. If you're still having problems, try a different style of servo arm with different hole spacing. Final adjustments to the linkage will probably need to be made after test running the engine to establish a dependable idle.

Follow the same procedures outlined above for the throttle pushrod. The only difference will be the front end of the pushrod, where it comes out of the firewall and attaches to the nose gear steering arm. Because of the very limited amount of space between the front of the firewall and the steering arm, you cannot use a threaded coupler and R/C link. Instead, we recommend an adjustable "pushrod connector" (Sig #SH-736) as shown below. Be sure to flow solder into the end of the steel cable to stiffen it and keep it from unraveling.

Notice that when the nosegear is in neutral position (pointed straight ahead), the steering arm is angled slightly forward. That way, when the servo pulls it back

to turn, the arm will clear the face of the firewall. You'll have to arrive at the proper amount of forward angle for the steering arm by trial and error. It actually takes much less movement of the nosewheel to effectively steer a model on the ground than most beginners think Start with the cable attached to the outer or middle hole on the steering arm for minimum deflection.

THE "ROLL TEST" - You can check your nosewheel pushrod installation by simply putting the model on the ground and giving it a push. With the radio switched "on" and the rudder trim lever centered on the transmitter, the model should roll straight ahead. Make adjustments by sliding the cable in or out of the pushrod connector on the steering arm.

AILERON PUSHRODS: Aileron pushrods for sport airplanes with "strip" ailerons are usually made from straight 2-56 threaded rods, connected to the aileron torque rod arms using R/C links. They are very simple and straight forward, requiring a minimum of time to install. A "Z" bend, nylon pushrod keeper, or solder link can be used to connect the aileron pushrods to the servo arms.

Aileron pushrods for airplanes with "barndoor" style ailerons out near the wingtips are a bit more complex. Normally a 90° bellcrank system using wire pushrods is required, as diagrammed here.